It is good to be underway. We cast off to a glorious sunrise. Dolphins escorted us for most of the day. We enjoyed getting back into the rhythm of sailing: the gentle rocking of the boat, the wind in our face, the sunshine on our skin, the lathering of sunscreen, the spraying of insect repellent.

It is bug season! There are “no see’ums” (little buggers who play dirty), love bugs (they fly in formation copulating!), midges, and ugly green-headed flies which somehow found their home in our home!

Our route today is Isle of Hope (Savannah) to Beaufort (South Carolina) – about 7.5 hours of sailing. Approaching Hilton Head the weather gods looked like they might play with us. Happy to report the fair weather stayed.

We are now tied up in the Downtown Marina – quite literally in the heart of historic Beaufort. And Beaufort is a beautiful place! After squaring away we walked part of the waterfront and into the historic town, all just at our feet. We indulged in a horse carriage historic tour. Our guide was very entertaining and knowledgeable. It was a wonderful oversight of the town. Not only did she explain the history of the Revolution and Civil Wars, but also the Gullah culture, church history, notable citizens and the gossip on actors and actresses. Quite a few movies have been filmed here: Forrest Gump, The Prince of Tides, The Great Santini, The Big Chill, GI Jane, Rules of Engagement…

The architecture is stunning. Buildings from pre-Revolutionary War to antebellum to Victorian, the town and historic centre is stepping back in time. The majestic live oaks, angel oaks, magnolias, Spanish moss and resurrection moss work together to create a southern genteel ambiance.

Our guide brought it all to life: the Arsenal packed with gunpowder to fight the Redcoats; the slaves working in the big houses; the garden parties designed to parade heiresses for the marriage market; Union forces headquartered in the town with churches requisitioned as hospitals and grave stone slabs used as operating tables; slaves freed and fighting for freedom; carpetbaggers and the part they played in creating Victorian mansions; and the effects of the movie making business on Beaufort.

Have you heard the saying “saved by the bell”? The story, not sure if is true, was that when someone died from yellow fever they were buried with a string tied to their little finger attached to a bell at the grave site. If they “awoke” as some apparently did, they could ring the bell and be dug up – so saved by the bell. The practice was abandoned when a strong wind blew up causing 200 exhumations to no avail.

I’m in history heaven!

Such is Life!